Loïc Mahe (La Possonière, Savennières, Loire)
EARTH & FIRE.
Savennières is one of a handful of truly exceptional Appellations in The Loire Valley, dedicated to the Chenin Blanc variety. And of all of them, it is without doubt the greatest when it comes to producing immensely powerful dry white wines.
Loïc Mahé was acutely aware of this fact when he began slowly constructing his Domaine in the year 2000, first by purchasing unplanted land within AOC Savennières, then purchasing significant old vine plantings, and finally an immaculate winery (Chateau la Franchaie) where all his wines are now calmly, carefully brought to life. Everything was, of course, managed and certified organically from the outset, with the addition of Biodynamic philosophies and vineyard preparations.
Today, Loïc farms 11ha of Chenin Blanc, and a small plot of Cabernet Franc for red. But he is also gradually reducing his holdings, in a never-ending quest to improve quality, even at the expense of quantity. All of his vineyards are perfectly situated, all facing directly south on the gentle slopes above the escarpment north of the Loire River. The vineyards are predominantly blue and red schist (slate/shale) under very thin topsoils of wind-blown sands, along with some unique parcels on volcanic rock with high quartz and flint content.
Loic makes his wines slowly, naturally, always allowing the wines to take the time they need to ferment dry with their indigenous yeasts, happy sitting tranquilly in old oak barrels. The only addition is very small amounts of SO2 close to bottling.
The wines are ultra pure and mineral, yet always generous, not austere. It must be said that Savennières wines are sometimes marked by austerity, by an un-checked intensity and bitterness, especially when heavy handed vinification is employed with too much new oak (and probably too much SO2). But Loïc’s wines always retain a generosity to go with the fistful of shattered shale essence. They walk the line.
CERTIFIED ORGANIC (AB).
White.
AOC Savennières Sables & Schistes - Chenin Blanc
Wind-blown sand over shale
18 months in old oak
Ripe orchard fruit, especially pears, floral notes, chestnut, honey
Laser-like palate, mineral, refreshing, pleasure
AOC Savennières Equilibre - Chenin Blanc
Decomposing blue and red schist with very little top soil
2 years in old oak barrels, and a further year in tank, en masse
White florals, confit fruits, brioche, apple strudel, pine resin
Fine, long, intense, almost tannic mouthfeel, complex and balanced
“Is this not a Grand Vin de Meursault !” said one companion, tasting it blind. This wine certainly has no reason to hide from any lineup of the world’s greatest white wines.
AOC Savennières Sectilis Terra / 2009 - Chenin Blanc
Very old vines clinging to schist rubble, no soil to be found, facing directly south at the sun
In a very solar vintage, on a naturally low yielding vineyard, these grandfather Chenin Blanc vines produced tiny clusters of tiny raisin like berries, full of intensity. The delicate grapes were picked ultra carefully and lightly pressed, the sweet juice then sat in a couple of old oak barrels gently fermenting for 18 months until finally reaching dryness in its own time. The wine then rested further in barrel, then in tank, and was finally bottled and rested a further few years and is now beginning to come out of its shell.
Golden, Honey, Bees Wax, Vanilla, Cedar, Cuban Cigar, Pine Forrest, intensely aromatic, full of vitality. A rare gem.
Red.
Vents d’Ouest - Cabernet Franc
From the relatively unknown Loire Valley sub-region of Coteau d’Ancenis, a place known for creating juicy, delicate and elegant red wines from Cabernet and Gamay. This one sits supremely happily in between serious and slippery, perfect Bistrot Wine. Herbaceous Franc notes enrobed in juicy red fruits and enough tannin to hang out with a rich meal.
Where’s my steak & frites !?